Comments (0) If you remember this post about the new motor I got? After installation I had some minor problem with it.
After I installed the motor, I saw this. Look closely, the outher shell (black) is touching the gold piece. There is suppose to be a gap between them.
I machined this like spacer.
Without the spacer.
With the spacer. See the difference?
A few days ago, I worked on the motor bracket. I also decided to make it bigger. I made is bigger because on the original bracket, I had one of the motor screws that was under a spacer. I had to remove the spacer to remove the screw. Since it is bigger, I have not problem now.
First I had to draw everything on the computer, I printed it to be sure I had the perfect fit. This is the new scooter. Since my bracket is bigger I had to drill new holes in the frame. I took the piece of paper on glued on the frame.
I wanted to be aligned so I turn on my LED flash light.
Here are the new holes.
I did the same thing here, I glued down the drawing and punch out the holes.
Those are the bottom and top of the bracket.
The only concern I have is that I am wondering if I am loosing the natual air flow of the motor by putting the motor bracket right in front of the motor vent holes. I was thinking of drilling holes but need to be sure I will not make my new bracket fragile on the edge.
On the right side of the spacer you can see washers, there are 3 washers, they help me to adjust the depth of the motor so I can aligned the belt.
I am thinking of adding this fan to cool down the motor. I bought this 7 blades turbine fan on hobbyking. It is a little bit big put should do the job. I will need to machine a bracket to hold it to the motor.
I might try other solution like a 5V PC fan.
Today I tested the motor and it works! I test the 30$ motor and at high speed, it was making this very high pitch sound. I will probably need to adjust timing and frequency directly on the brushless controller.
I am concerned about the heat generated by the motor while free running. It was running at full speed with no load for a 2 minutes and it get warm. So a fan will be needed to ensure the magnet health.
Steps before first run
To make my scooter with my new motor, I needed to change the shaft of the new motor so I could insert the belt pullet on it. The real problem was that the original motor was to short. I needed to have a beffy bracket to hold the motor and at the same time have enough shaft length to hold on the belt pulley. With the original shaft I could only have one and not both. I then decided to machine a new shaft. It is really easy to change the shaft of a brushless motor. I said to myself, “If you make something, make it right the first time!“
I went to a great place in town call Métaux Gherbavaz to buy some 8mm rod. I took some tool making metal so I could temper it. The bearing inside the motor where 8mm, well, it was 7.96mm and I had the machine my new 8mm rod down just enough to make it fit in the bearing…
Istarted by fixing, the entire 24″ rod in the lathe. Only 4 to 5 inch was coming out the other end.
The first idea was to use sand paper to get it to the perfect bearing diameter. I started at the right end, sanded until the bearing could fit on the shaft. On this picture you can see a black marking , that was where the bearing stop moving, I also use the cooper rod in a angle at the bottom of the picture to tell me where the bearing was when it was stuck and could not more further on the shaft. Then I continued to sand the rod.
In conclusion it goes like this: Fit the bearing on the shaft until it does not move anymore, then sand until the bearing can move again towards the left.
Here you can see the bearing and the angle cooper rod has the guide.
Checking with the original shaft where to make to groove for the C-clip.
Making the C-clip groove was not hard has I expected. Simply go foward with a V cutter.
Making the D shape on the belt pulley.
Using a fill to make sure the pulley fit perfectly…
voila!
Comparing the original shaft with the new one.
These pictures was before the tempering, I wanted to see if everything fits perfectly before tempering.
You can clearlly see that I need to cut the tip of the shaft before tempering it.
The shaft in this picture is tempered ( it was cut the perfect length ). It is really dark because I took picture on new light table and I don’t have engough top light.
The new and original shaft. The original is at the bottom of the picture.
Here is what you did not see. The first shaft Imade was perfect! I was only concern about the tiny slack with the bearing and the new 7.96mm shaft. I was concern, so I tried other way to machine the shaft down to 7.96mm. I use the cutter to cut away a thin layer of metal, but it end up with a rough surface. I then tried again sanding by hand on the patio taking my time. It started find the bearing was moving along the shaft but toward the end the bearing could slide WAY to easilly on the entire shaft. I when back to the original shaft.
I decide to temper the shaft because I thought it was cool! Tempering metal is a ART! ok! There is tons of way to temper and plenty of ways you can temper it. I ask a my friend David a mechanical engineer and a my other friend Pat, who took blacksmith course to make knifes. It is very complex art and pretty interesting. David told me that you can buy special sort of wax crayon that melt only at a specific temperature, so you heat up your metal until the tip of the crayon melts, then you know that your are stage 1 and you start to temper it by dropping it into water or oil, you then let it sit. After that you start over with stage 2 and you use a other wax crayon with a other heat threshold. That is only one way, he explain many other cool ways!
I end up asking my dad to blowtorch it until it became cherry hot and ask him to drop it in water. We did not have a high power blowtorch at home, so my dad took it at work. He told me that the metal was a very nice cherry hot colour.
When I inserted the pulley on the motor shaft, there was some little side mouvement. It was not extremely major but I found this simple solution that could of fix this problem fast and it was free.
This sort of slack was due to me machining of the motor shaft. The “D” slot ( D-bore) was the problem.
The solution was to make a shim to go between the shaft and the belt pulley to prevent the mouvement.
The coke can makes perfect shim. It measure 0.0035″ ( 0.09mm)
Very easy to cut and make the shape you want.
Making a triangle helps to insert the shim under the belt pulley.
With this solution, I was able to remove the slack in the belt pulley and the shaft. After a couple of hours on the scooter, I saw the shim disintegrated or simply not there when I remove the pulley from the shaft. It does work for a certain amount of time. The shim took the same colours has the shaft and was extremelly hard to see.
The first time I did not see it and the second time I removed the pulley from the shaft, it was there but hard to see.
Here is my project about my electric scooter.
I was always interested to build a electric moving thing. In may 2009, I when in France to see familly and one of my dad and my mom best friend. His son had this electric scooter that he was not using anymore and he did not have the battery. I told him that I wanted to modify one to make it go real fast. He then gave it to me for FREE! 
A big thanks to Paulo!
I will explain how I modify this scooter and all my experimentation about it.
Can’t wait to ride it!
Jerome
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